HIDDEN GEMS AMONGST THE CROWN JEWELS
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful!" Mae West
When you're seeing first-hand the grandeur of the Coliseum, the
artistry of the Sistine Chapel; the majesty of St. Peter's Basilica; the
stunning magnificence of Michelangelo's David
or Botticelli's The Birth of
Venus; the opulence of Venice's Grand Canal; the unrivaled beauty
of Siena's Duomo (yes, even better than Florence's Duomo, IMHO); or the grand
mountaintop summer palaces of the Portuguese kings in Sintra, there is a danger
of your senses becoming overloaded and jaded to everything else around
you.
After two weeks in Europe, Marcie and I weren't expecting to be
impressed when our driver dropped us off at the São Bento Train Station in
Porto, Portugal, early one morning to begin a rail and boat tour of the Douro
River Valley. Yes, we'd heard that our time on the river would be breathtaking
- which it was - but we never imagined we'd discover an unforgettable gem
before we even got on the train.
The São Bento Train
Station in Porto, Portugal
Porto is more a working-class city than a tourist attraction.
While the São Bento train station is lovely from the outside, we were blown
away by the interior, which is an unpretentious but absolutely gorgeous work of
art. We later learned that it was completed in 1903 and is considered by many
travelers as one of the world's most beautiful train stations.
The walls in the front hall are covered with more than 20,000 of
Portugal's finest "azulejos,"
the exquisite hand-painted blue tiles for which the country is famous. Those on
the ends of the building depict great events in Portugal's rich history and
those on the sides show delightful scenes of everyday life in the Portuguese
countryside. Above the tiles, forming a crown molding around the entire room,
are brightly-colored tiles that illustrate the progression of transportation
from Roman times to the 20th Century.
Fortunately we had the
time to savor this hidden gem of a workaday public building before our train
carried us away to view scenery as delightful as Tuscany's. Fortunately we
weren't so star-struck by other "grander" sights that we failed to
notice this unassuming masterpiece.
These so-called "lesser lights" were as essential to our enjoyment of our vacation as the blockbusters. For every Venice and its Grand Canal, there was a colorful fishing village of Burano, with friendly people, brightly colored houses, and its own Pisa-like leaning bell tower.
These so-called "lesser lights" were as essential to our enjoyment of our vacation as the blockbusters. For every Venice and its Grand Canal, there was a colorful fishing village of Burano, with friendly people, brightly colored houses, and its own Pisa-like leaning bell tower.
The main square on the
island of Burano in the Venetian Lagoon.
For every Florence and its Galeria Uffizi, there was a charming
Tuscan village of Pienza with its humble church, grand views, and Via Dell'
Amore ("Lover's Lane").
For every Palácio da Pena perched on a rugged and regal mountaintop in Sintra, Portugal, there was an Óbidos with its more-modest castle and its 12th century walls that completely encase the village and stand a full 45 feet tall.
The history books say that when 13th-century Portuguese Queen
Isabel passed through Óbidos and marveled at its beauty, her husband King Denis
I simply gave it to her. For centuries after, the kings of Portugal followed
suit, presenting the picturesque little town to their queens as a wedding gift.
It is now known as the wedding capital of Portugal.
This trip reminded Marcie
and me that the world is made of much more than Five Star Attractions and
E-Ticket Rides. Sometimes the less acclaimed settings and experiences are just
as wonderful as the prima
donas, if we'll just slow down enough to spot them and savor them.
Life is much richer when it is a mixture of
super-star moments together with more modest but equally important and equally
beautiful day-to-day discoveries and celebrations. We're grateful our time in
Italy and Portugal was chock-full of both.
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